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Subject: Trolling for walleyes with line counter reels. What rod?
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HOGEYEUser is Offline
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4/21/2005 8:49 PM  
I just bought a new trolling rod and will be ordering a line counter soon. I know a little and would like to know what other think and know. Here is a little of what I ahve to offer:

Which rod to buy would depend on two factors in my opinion:

The first would be are you going to be using it with a super no-stretch line or mono. I use fireline which doesn't stretch. This allows one to easily snap the rod to remove weeds. For this application I would use a long limber rod in the 7-8' range made of either fiberglass or E-glass. This will compensate for the stretch/shock that mono would normally provide. Get something with a strong but and a soft tip. I just bought a Gander Mt. Guide Series rod that is made for planer boards. It has a telescoping butt section for easier storage and can even be handy when landing fish while fishing solo. I also have a G-Loomis Walleye series that is designed for mono (7'10". They also make one for superlines. With something shorter I would def use a mono leader for extra shock absorption. If one want to use a shorter graphite rod like an IM7 I would suggest using a mono shock and using a light drag setting. It's no fun blowing up an expensive graphite rod!

Second, is how much do you want to spend? One can get a good trolling rod from 30-200$. I don't think that an expensive rod is neccesarily that important while trolling. Jigging is a different story IMHO. I just got mine from a friend for a good price. St. Croix makes a good trolling rod for around 80$. Gander also has some good E-glass rods for bass fishing that I have heard work great for 40$. I believe that an E-glass is a combination of glass and graphite. Someone may correct me on this though.

Keep in mind that many dive charts are made for using mono line. Using dive charts and knowing lure depth is one of the main advantages of using a line counter. I haven't had much experiences with line counters yet, but will be jumping that hurdle this summer.

I have also heard that a line counter's accurate reading depends on line width and the amount of line on the spool. I have heard of ways to calibrate line counters, but don't know how or even if is true. Anyone else?

I am new to line counters and am curious to hear what others have to say.

Nathan "HogEye" Kestner
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8/04/2005 10:18 PM  
Good post HOGEYE. So how did the summer go so far? Some nice tips. I use 7.5' medium action Pfluger trolling rods with the telescoping butt section teamed with Okuma Magda line counter reels (http://www.okumafishing.com/products/reels/magda/magda.htm).

I picked the rods up on a fall sale from Bass Pro Shops a few years ago for less than $30, an incredible deal. All my rigs are set up exactly the same, 6 with lead line, 6 with mono. I don't use Fireline because I fish mostly in Northern Green Bay or Bay de Noc and the visiblity is to much for the super braids (IMHO). I also prefer mono, becasue of it's stretch, seems to give better hook-ups. I use a hybrid mono/flourocarbon from Yozuri that works great. Ties good knots and holds up to the Zebra Muscles pretty well.

As far as the dive charts go, I use the Precision Trolling products from http://www.precisionangling.com/. They seem to do the best job of keeping up with the baits. The main reason I set each of my rigs up exactly the same is because of the accuracy issue. Even with a full spool, as you leave out line your counter begins to vary, but with each rig the same, once you find the right depth with the right bait you can make sure all of your other baits are presented in the strike zone.

My preference by far is to troll with lead if the fish are deep enough. Thats really speed dependant becasue of the dia. of the line, but once you get a grip on it there is no better way to get to those lunkers hanging out at 30" than with lead line. Give it a try some time!
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8/12/2005 12:12 PM  
leadcore,

I would agree that it is hard to know exactly what depth one is at when using linecounters. I have found that it is best to pay attention to what "depth" ones real is showing when catching the most fish. To have other setups replicate this; it is indeed important for them to have the exact same setup. Thanks for the reply, and good information.

Nathan "HogEye" Kestner
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